Small Changes to Achieve Couture Features.

I’m always being asked by ladies how the catwalk shows at places like London fashion week can have any relevance to high street fashion. Looking through the website for the London fashion week I’m naturally draw to exhibitors who feature tailoring. So Paul Smith’s catwalk show appealed to me, this jacket stood out immediately.

Paul Smith Jacket

I was making a grey pin striped jacket at the time of the fashion week. The collar is almost the same.

Grey Striped Jacket

I did a very small alteration to the pattern to get this look. The collar is redrawn so that the notch in the collar is filled in.

Collar Alteration

I have then extended the lapel edge to form a pointed double breasted lapel.

Jacket Front Alteration

Because I had a beautiful pinstriped wool/cashmere cloth, I wanted to make a feature of the stripe so I cut the edge of the lapel as a separate piece on the bias. For the Paul Smith jacket he has extended the lapel to form a very large lapel extending across the front of the jacket.  See the diagram below to see how it’s done. The blue lines are the original pattern. The red lines are my alteration line with a red dotted line where I cut of the edge of the lapel to create the bias edge to the lapel. The green line is where you need to draw to get the lapel line for the Paul Smith jacket. He has cut the jacket with panels of different colours as is the fashion this season. I just cut the jacket in one fabric. The large patch pockets I have replaced with flapped pockets again cutting the flap on the bias to match the lapels.

I wear this suit to work when I’m teaching. You can see how easy it is to create wearable clothes from the catwalk ideas.