I’m asked all the time about using fusible interfacings. The main complaint I get is that the interfacings bubble. This is caused by the interfacing or the fabric shrinking once the interfacing is applied. This won’t happen if you prepare your fabric by shrinking it first. Hover the iron over it sending as much steam as you can in to it. Go all over one side up to 4cms from the fold. Turn the fabric over & do the same on the other side. Then open out the fold & steam up it. This process not only shrinks the fabric but it enables you to see any faults or dirty marks in your cloth.
The interfacing is cut the same size as the piece you are fusing it to but then trimmed back a couple of millimetetres to stop the interfacing sticking to the ironing board. All the pieces are fused first & then joined together, don’t sew seams up & then apply the interfacing as you will press ridges in to your garment where the seams are. Then follow these three easy steps for a perfect result every time.
The glue side of the interfacing should be facing the wrong side of your fabric. The rough side of the interfacing is the glue side. To shrink the interfacing hover the steam iron just above the surface of the interfacing. No more than 6mm away. The steam from the iron will shrink the interfacing. Go all over the interfacing, you may see it move.
Once the shrinking has occurred, you will see small bubbles in the interfacing. To remove them pull the interfacing off the fabric. Then lay it down again on to the fabric. You can use a pressing cloth for the next two stages this will stop some of the glue sticking to your iron. I recommend a silk organza pressing cloth as you can see through it. Gently pass the steam iron all over the interfacing. At this point we are not trying to get the interfacing to stick.
If you are not happy with the positioning of the interfacing, you can pull it back off the fabric. To reposition it.
Now you need to fuse the interfacing. It is a combination of heat & steam that melts the glue on the back of the interfacing. As a rule if you make sure you have some steam going into the interfacing & then count to 10 seconds. It should have stuck. Then move your iron to the next place. Don’t keep the iron on the move. To test if the interfacing is stuck, take it on the cross grain & listen. You shouldn’t hear anything when you pull it.