Today is the day where most of the work is done inside the coat. When the coat is finished you won’t be able to see what we have been doing all day. So I thought you might like to see how we have been using some of the English Couture products.
Before we put the facings on to the front of the coat it makes a more accurate edge if you mark up the fronts making sure both of the fronts are exactly the same. You may have cut out the coat with as much care as is possible but the making up of the coat can distort the front edges so shaping is the answer. After that we have used the Off grain tape. This is a fusible stay tape & as the name suggests is not on the straight grain, in fact it has been cut 13 degrees off straight grain. This enables you to go around a shaped edge but still get an edge that has been stayed.
To apply this tape you simply use heat & steam & iron it into place.
The other magic ingredient we used was the instant stitch hemming tape. This is again a fusible product & means you don’t have to hand stitch your hem. It is two pieces of fusible interfacing which has been stitched down the middle.
To use this tape you press up your hem so it is creased in the right place. Then open up the hemline, insert the tape up to the crease, then fold back in to place & press using heat & steam. Hey presto your hem is sewn up without you even threading a needle.
Once the facings have been applied both them & the lining has to be basted (tacked) in to place. I’ve introduced my ladies to Basting thread. This is a thicker than normal cotton but is very easy to break. If you use this thread instead of normal sewing thread it makes it much easier to pull out at the end. It also makes it safer because if this thread snaggs as it comes out it breaks, if you use normal tread it will cut in to your fabric. This cotton is also brilliant when it comes to tailor tacks. The tacks stay in easier. See how to do them quickly & professionally here.
So now all the lining is perfect we can start to make up shoulders, sleeves & collar. Our coats are really beginning to look professional. Drop back again tomorrow to see what’s next.