One of the main differences between Traditional & Speed Tailoring are the interlinings used in the front or T-Zone.
In traditional Tailoring a Canvas is used as the main interlining. This is then teamed with a heavier canvas plus a domette chest piece or plastron. These are basted in place by hand & then hand padded to make the shape & keep it in place.
These pieces are then joined together & hand basted to the jacket.
The canvas is then hand padded to the jacket to create the interlining for the front of the jacket.
As you can see there is a lot of hand stitching goes in to this method of tailoring. All the shaping is done by hand & a lot of steaming.
To get to the same stage in the Speed Tailored version, I use a Fusible interfacing all over the jacket body (Supersoft Superior) then I make a floating chest piece from White Chest Canvas & Fusible Padding for the other layers. It is fixed to the jacket by a strip of Fusible interfacing (Weft Insertion).
As you can see both of these methods once put together look almost the same. The difference is the way the jackets look when finished. The Traditional tailoring is a much more rounded appearance where as the Speed Tailoring has a sharp finish.
I thought you might also like to see the lining finishes I’ve used on the two jackets. You can use either of them for either method. I like to do something unusual on the insides of my jackets.
The traditional tailored one has an embroidery on the inside & the Speed tailored one has piping around the facing. This is the new piping we have recently had in stock & is perfect for this job as it is very lightweight.
There are other differences in the making processes of the two tailoring versions. Keep an eye out for the next blog.