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Michelle Pye Friday, September 15, 2017 1

Jackets are Finished.

I have at last finished the two jackets I started work on during the two tailoring courses I ran in the Summer. I thought you might like to see the difference in the sleeve application. I use silk organza selvedge  to make putting sleeves in very easy. With the two different tailoring methods I do use the organza in different ways but both methods use the organza to squash out the fullness meaning when you sew in the sleeve it’s just like sewing two straight pieces together.

The Traditional method takes a bit longer than the the Speed method as usual. You first of all pin the sleeve into the armhole & then you attach the organza to the sleeve making sure all the fullness is in the correct position. Then you hand stitch the organza in place on the sleeve only. This is the bit my students always object to, remove the sleeve & use steam to shrink out the fullness. As you can see from the photo the sleeve already has the shaping done so when you pop it back in there is no problem with tucks at the top of the sleeve.

Silk Organza Selvedge shapes the sleeve before it goes in.

The Speed tailoring version is slightly quicker to do, in that you pin the sleeve in to the armhole, & then machine the sleeve in using the silk organza selvedge to squash the fullness out of the way  as you go.

For both methods, I would finish the sleeve off with either a sleeve wrap

Sleeve wrap

or sleevehead.

Sleevehead

Down into or around the sleeve. Both of these techniques are designed to hold out the crown of the sleeve. As you can see from the photos it even works on a calico sample.

I would then put in a shoulder pad on the top of the shoulder, the edge of the pad needs to be level with the edge of the sleeve seam. I always back stitch my pads in using a double thread of basting cotton.

Shoulder pad with sleevehead

Shoulder pad with sleevehead

When I’m finishing both methods I use the same finishing techniques. The main features of this includes hand worked buttonholes & a prick stitched edge. See the main photo. Both of these techniques will tell you that it is a hand made jacket. I don’t care how good your machine is it will not produce anything that looks like this.

The following pictures are the detail of the speed tailored jacket. I could have done any of these for the traditional jacket as well. I just wanted them to be different.

Cuff Finish

Cuff finish

Yoke Detail with sprathead.

Yoke detail with sprathead finish

Flapped jetted pocket

Flapped Jetted Pocket

If you are booked in to any of my courses this Autumn/Winter look out for the suits. I’m really looking forward to wearing them. Now the Jackets are Finished, I have made one new shirt to go with them but still thinking about a second!

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Comments

  1. Janet Siddall

    Beautiful jackets as ever. I do like the hand worked buttonhole and since the tailoring course I am now fully converted and thirsty for more courses.

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